A bittersweet journey of coffee and cultural exchange丨一杯咖啡串起沪滇情深

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In a resettlement neighbourhood in Baoshan City, Yunnan Province, villagers dance to welcome their guests, who are pairing aid officials from Minhang District, Shanghai. The villagers used to live in the mountains, in cottages that let in the wind and rain. National policies and East-West cooperation projects supported them and more people moved away from the mountains.


"Next, we'll help them develop the economy and increase job opportunities," said Ge Jikun, a pairing assistance official from Shanghai. From coffee beans to industrial parks, Baoshan and Minhang empower each other and are each other's beneficiaries.


Coffee beans from Baoshan City in southwest China's Yunnan Province have strengthened its connection with Shanghai since the 1970s.


In the 1970s, 231 youths from Shanghai, were dispatched to the Lujiangba flatland in Baoshan to help develop the local coffee industry. Their dormitory buildings still remain.


In 2012, Minhang established its pairing aid relationship with Baoshan.


In 2017, the district's direct assistance reached Baoshan's Longyang District, Shidian County. Longling County and Changning County. In particular, Lujiang Town in Longyang has been successfully transformed into a coffee-themed town.


Nicknamed the "No. 1 Coffee Village" in China, Xinzhai Village in Lujiang has a coffee plantation area of about 13,600 mu (906.7 hectares), and boasts the largest Coffea arabica plantation area nationwide. Annually the village processes about 6,000 tons of raw coffee beans.


In spite of the success, the village's coffee industry once plunged into a dilemma: The volatile price of the raw coffee beans prevented farmers from coffee plantation.


They considered replacing coffee trees with other crops. Some villagers asked why, if a cup of coffee sells for more than 30 yuan (US$4.2) in Shanghai, their high-quality coffee beans only sold for several yuan per 500 grams.


Zhu Xuhui, an official from Minhang, was appointed deputy head of the agricultural and rural bureau of Longyang for two years.




After several surveys, officials in Xinzhai agreed that its Coffea arabica was of high quality, but lacked refined management and processing skills, therefore it was being sold at a low and volatile price.


"We had to choose the refined processing technology to bring our Coffea arabica the deserved price," said Hu Li, a pairing assistance official from Minhang and deputy head of Longyang.


Financed by the east-west cooperation fund, Xinzhai set up a coffee processing factory. Rather than roughly picking and processing all the beans at one time, the villagers are treating coffee quality as the priority. Their refined raw coffee beans are now sold at 60 yuan per kilogram, up from 15 yuan per kilogram previously.


Their next step is to build 10 coffee manors, 100 coffee yards inside households, 1,000 mu of selected coffee plantation land and 10,000 mu of coffee bean gardens. By then, Xinzhai will become a comprehensive coffee plantation, processing, production and rural tourism area.


Peng Ankui, a local farmer, is one of the beneficiaries in the coffee renovation in Xinzhai since 2022.


Many tourists visit his coffee tree garden and taste coffee, and Peng took the opportunity to launch a coffee tree adoption activity. Thus far, more than 100 coffee trees have been adopted by people.


Peng's annual income increased accordingly, from 45,000 yuan in 2022 from coffee plantation, to 75,000 yuan in 2023, up 66 percent year on year, with earnings from the coffee tree adoption reaching 26,800 yuan.


"We helped local people through pairing assistance projects, meanwhile also matured ourselves," Zhu said. "Our skin turned darker due to long-time exposure under scorching sun. Our hair turned whiter due to constant thinking and learning. But we never regretted being there, and continued on in spite of our adversity."


On May 19 this year, Minhang joined with Baoshan to launch an agriculture products recommendation fair at Hongqiao Paradise Walk, as part of the events of the 2024 Shanghai International Coffee Culture Festival.


During the fair, Baoshan residents introduced visitors to their unique local coffee, tea, and other processed agricultural products. The event encouraged coffee culture exchanges between the two places as well as boosted the coffee economy.


在云南保山市施甸县姚关镇朱市冲安置点的广场上,看到上海闵行的客人来了,村民们热情洋溢地开始打歌表演,并盛情邀请大家加入其中,一同拍手蹬脚、左右摆动……


过去,村民们住在山上,房子经常漏风漏雨。如今,在国家各项好政策和东西部协作的支持下,越来越多人和朱市冲安置点的村民一样,过上了好日子。


“村民们是搬下来了,但要让他们长期过上好日子,主要靠产业发展。这几年,保山东西部协作项目投入的主要方向,就是帮助当地发展经济、解决就业。”上海市援滇干部联络组保山小组组长、保山市委副秘书长季葛季节坤说。



1970年代初,231名上海知青到保山潞江坝发展咖啡产业,知青当年居住的房屋至今还在。2012年,闵行、保山建立合作关系;2017年,闵行区直接对口帮扶保山市隆阳区、施甸县、龙陵县、昌宁县。在“沪滇协作”助力下,保山市首个区域公用品牌“一座保山”应运而生,隆阳区潞江镇更是成功打造咖啡小镇。


位于保山市隆阳区潞江镇的新寨村,有着“中国咖啡第一村”的美誉。这里咖啡种植面积达1.36万亩,是全国小粒咖啡种植面积最大的行政村,每年加工咖啡鲜果约6千吨。然而,新寨村的咖啡产业也曾一度面临困境——由于咖啡原料价格波动较大,导致咖农种植积极性不高,甚至想要砍掉咖啡树种植其他作物。有村民提出疑问:“在上海,一杯咖啡能卖30多元,为什么我们的优质咖啡豆只能卖几块钱一斤?”



村里经反复调研后发现,新寨村不缺好的咖啡豆,缺的是“去粗取精”的生产管理方式及深加工技术,这就导致新寨村只能以廉价出售咖啡原料,不仅附加值上不去,抗风险能力还差。“我们得出这样一个结论:只有走精品化、精深加工这条路,才能打破当地‘小粒’咖啡优质但不优价、增产但不增收的困局。”闵行援滇干部、保山市隆阳区委常委、副区长胡立说。


要把产业搞活,需要改变的是理念。近年来,在闵行援滇干部的牵线搭桥下,在东西部协作资金的支持下,新寨村新建了咖啡加工厂房,并一改过去“绿果红果一把抓、一起烘”的粗放式采摘、生产方式,将质量把控作为头等大事。这样生产出的精品咖啡生豆,价格从每公斤15元提高至60元,让农户收入翻了4倍。



在提升咖啡豆品质的同时,新寨村干部群众在闵行援滇干部的帮助下,确立了“咖啡庄园化、庄园景区化、景区特色化”的发展思路,按照“十百千万”进行整体规划,即建设10个咖啡庄园、100户农家咖啡小院、1000亩咖啡精品基地、10000亩咖啡园,塑造新寨村咖啡种植、加工、生产、体验一体化发展格局,推动了乡村产业、文化、生态等全面发展。



2024上海国际咖啡文化节如火如荼开展之际,5月19日,由上海市闵行区和云南省保山市协作,虹桥国际咖啡文化节闵行美好“啡”行集市暨沪滇协作闵保专题推介会在虹桥天街开幕。集市上,来自云南保山的朋友把各种特色咖啡、茶叶及其加工产品带到了闵行,这场盛宴为沪滇两地咖啡文化传播及推广注入了新的活力,也为两地经济文化交流和发展搭建了新的重要平台。


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Source: SHINE
Edited by Wang Chenyi
Reviewed by ZhaoRuonan,HeTingting,XuLeibing